Solitary Wayfaring: Hakone and Fukuzumiro – A Japanese fairy-tale getaway

Saturday 27 October 2018

Hakone and Fukuzumiro – A Japanese fairy-tale getaway

On a 10-day trip to Tokyo during last spring during the weeks just before Sakura was starting I visited Hakone and the Fukuzumiro guesthouse.
Hakone is often considered one of the main travel destinations around the capital, given the views of Mount Fuji one can enjoy during a short daytrip out of the city. With that in mind visiting the area is advisable during weekdays outside of the main holiday season in order to avoid the largest crows.

The Hakone Shinto Shrine on lake Ashi - Japan, Hakone-machi

Hakone-machi, Japan

The Hakone Shinto Shrine on lake Ashi - Japan, Hakone-machi

For the visitor who wants to spend a bit longer time in the area there are a number of recreational activities such as famous hot springs, hiking opportunities, museums and great natural scenery during all four seasons of the year.

View towards Mt. Fuji from the Hakone Ropeway on the way to Lake Ashi - Hakone-machi, Japan

During my trip here I stayed two nights, and the guest house of choice was Fukuzumiro, a rather expensive options but in hindsight money well spent as it provided me with some great memories and I had the possibility to experience a Japan that was pretty much aligned with my romantic dreams of small-town natural life in a time gone by. The hotel is a registered cultural property built in the late 19^th century, and they have proudly hosted a number of famous cultural influencers during their 100+ years of operations. (http://www.fukuzumi-ro.com/eng/about/about.html)

The guesthouse offers traditional Japanese hospitality in a historical setting, the offer is half board including breakfast and dinner (big meals with many various dishes) and they have their own hot spring baths, that can be shared with other guests but also one for private usage. (http://www.fukuzumi-ro.com/eng/bath/bath.html)

Below would be my impressions from Hakone during early spring of 2018, and the guesthouse in particular as it is a sight and experience in itself.

From Tokyo one may travel directly to Hakone from Shinjuku Station on the Odakyu line for just a little above 1000 yen per ticket. There is a more "fancy" train available on certain departures, "Romance Car", which will cost a little less than the double of the standard train however gives reserved seating and panoramic views through the windows, see below video of the Romance Car pulling out from Tokyo towards Hakone.

Upon arriving to the Hakone Yumoto Station the Fukuzumiro guesthouse is a short comfortable (depending on how heavy luggage one has) walk along the main road.

Arriving at Hakone Yumoto Station, Hakone-machi, Japan

Passing the river (Haya river) on the way towards the Fukuzumiro Guesthouse - Hakone-machi, Japan

Entrance to the Fukuzumiro Guesthouse - Hakone-machi, Japan

Open space, Fukuzumiro Guesthouse - Hakone-machi, Japan

Bed room in the Fukuzumiro guesthouse - Hakone-machi, Japan

Guest room in the Fukuzumiro guesthouse - Hakone-machi, Japan

Fukuzumiro guesthouse - Hakone-machi, Japan

The biggest impression from this two night stay within a historical landmark in Hakone was not the comfortable and warm bedding, the soothing sounds of the river outside, the bird song in the morning of the impeccable service by the staff, nor the hot hot hot, hot springs, it was the WONDERFUL FOOD! With that in mind I am dedicating a fair bit of space below to some of the wonderful dishes that were prepared in house and served to the room, with regional and seasonal ingredients, perfectly laid out and just in the right amount of everything.